Daria Veledeeva is not just an amazing woman and the story of a stunning career, but also a desperate workaholic who, every day through many small tasks goes to the global goal – to make the Russian Harper's Bazaar best in the world.
— First the book and then the movie "the Devil wears Prada" proclaimed that millions of girls dream of working in the gloss. Is it really so?
Yes, millions of girls do dream about it, but have absolutely no idea of what this work is. They think it's a good time, flowing from the editorial Board with champagne in celebration. I had a million assistants, and the best of them became editors.
But there are others. One, for example, got up in the middle of the day and told me: "Your work is uninteresting, I thought I'd arrange your meetings with the designers..." is This some kind of cosmic stupidity.
Our job is the same as any other. Yes, it is much more interesting because every day you have a lot, you hang out with amazingly talented people, see the most beautiful things in the world, know everything that's going on in fashion, in art, in music, and you always have the right of first night on possession of these knowledge. But very few people who truly realize that it is workand routine and bookkeeping, and a bunch of things nobody wants to do it, but they are part of our life.
— When did you start working as imagined this work?
— I imagined it as normal journalistic work, only slightly more embellished a glossy reality. By the time I was 17 and I became editor of Marie Claire magazine, I've worked in teen magazines and on television, so knew what the profession of journalism, what it is and what bonuses there are, when you work in the gloss.
Moreover, with this work about. I was not looking for a permanent place, just wanted somewhere to write as a freelancer, but it so happened that I was offered immediately a full-time position. And so it was that I a day in his life did not work either as an assistant or helper, and at once became editor. For this I am very grateful to my first editor-in-chief – for having believed in me.
— Was it hard?
— Hard, of course, it was necessary to combine work and study. On the other hand, what in life is easy? Right now, for example, people often ask me: "How was the shows?" I'm extremely non-aggressive person, but I'm really causes aggression.
After six or seven shows, five presentations and two dinners you are running to an event that is impossible not to go: you do not hang out there and go, because you will meet people with whom to discuss certain issues.
You come home 2-3 hours a night, and at 9 am you have the first show. What's the rest? Just have to be very serious motivation in everything you do.
I recently did an interview with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and we were just discussing this issue. They very rightly said that if you love your job, then for you there is no concept of "I work weekends".
Yes, I have a month's output at all. I'm at the shows in Milan and Paris, while in Moscow, rent a room. I came up with activities and then opened layouts. It's hard, but you did not notice, because the work absorbed in your life so that they do not share: that work is there, but here – friendship. Even in his personal time, I read other magazines from them and try to learn something.
— Russian gloss is often taken as an example abroad. How do you think they have there better?
— You know, it's just funny to compare. Though, because the American market is much older. What can I say, if American Harper's Bazaar for more than 140 years? It's like comparing baby and adult. Yes, of course, we have achieved much over the past 15 years, but compare with the us market is still impossible.
I believe that the product which is obtained in our Russian reality is cool. We do truly high-quality and fashion magazine: we removed and removed with great photographers and famous models, many take our cover.
— How a person feels, which is such a huge story of Harper's Bazaar? It's a big responsibility not to fail, keep the spirit...
— People who are always afraid someone fail, all life someone down. So, as they say, eyes are afraid – hands do. Of course, looking back, I realize that much, I would have done differently, but this is normal for any professional.
I came to Harper's Bazaar not a beginner and for me it was important to do live journal. Not a static, old-fashioned and preachy, and positive and trendy, which raises people's spirits. And I think it works for us. But there's always a desire to improve. Here you get the signal number, you look and you realize: you've got to do differently, it should be removed, and it is here to add. It's such an endless mosaic that you play.
— How experience changes the magazine and the readers?
— The Harper's Bazaar editors-in-chief was as much as there was no one, therefore, our readers are accustomed to change. But we always have the challenge not only to preserve the old, but also to attract a new audience. While we all get.
— How do you do it?
— I think the main thing in the formulation. It was important for me to do a magazine that is easy to imagine yourself in another country. And now our cover and shooting take other editions of Harper's Bazaar China, Spain, Australia, all of Eastern Europe. This means that we are doing something interesting for the whole world.
— Gloss is the pillar and support of the fashion industry, but the fashion industry is limping...
— And I'll explain why. Because our designers often do not work, and support you can only those for whom they can vouch. First, the problems with mandatory – things just don't make clothes in due time. Second, the ratio of "price – quality" often seems a most peculiar way. And thirdly, often sweeping ambitions of Russian designers prevent them to adequately assess trends over time.
What can I say – many of them don't do basic monitoring of my stuff in magazines. Before you cry that few of them are shooting for magazines you can buy and see, then call the editor and say thanks for posting. Of course, there are talented guys who we support and promote, but if they are many and well didn't work, we wouldn't do it.
Russian Harper's Bazaar and gloss generally survived the crisis?
They gave way, and the most important thing! Of course, for many it became a test of strength.
— What knowledge have brought this crisis?
— Of course, how to spend less money and work even more with less. It is a valuable experience. Aggravated the struggle for quality, I am very pleased.
— How you consider, whether the press will concede its place to the Internet?
— I am deeply convinced that print will remain. Of course, people go to the Internet, it's a different quality and completely different perception of information. We also now done its iPad app. It really gives another view about the things we publish on the pages of the magazine. For example, there earrings are three dimensional and can be viewed from all sides. But the feel of the print, I think, still can not replace anything.
Yes, some people will see photos from the shows on the Internet, but a huge number of readers interested not only photos, but also comments of experts: what can happen with these things in usual life and at the same time on the level of art. Such knowledge is the Internet does not.
The Internet is hard to feel fashionable the survey you are doing the best stylists. The easiest way to explain it on this example: I always had the desire to make a magazine that wants to tear the pages and hang on their wall. And the Internet is to dismantle the village is not desirable. It's probably terribly subjective and difficult to convey the feeling, but I feel this is so. Yes, now the Internet, there are thousands of fashion blogs, but at best it is a private experience almost children, and at worst a kind of claim to analyze trends, although people (and it shows) knows so little about fashion and the processes that take place there that his remarks have nothing to do with reality in principle.
But at the same time Harper's Bazaar has a website...
— Yes, we are working on it, but a lot of time devoted to the iPad app, so that people downloading it, I saw that we can show them more and more.
— What plans?
— There was a conference of all editions of Harper's Bazaar in Milan, where the editors of 30 journals and experiences. I had a presentation on how to survive in the competition. And my experience tells me that understanding of the tasks to become the best magazine in the country and in the world nothing in life will not help. It is necessary every day to put themselves billions of small tasks and using them to gradually come to a global goal.
author Margo Boiko
The interview was published in the journal NightStyle, April 2011.
Reprinted with permission of the author.